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October 16, 2024

Our deep dive into the struggles of Houston restaurants

Plus: beloved Midwest chain Portillo's sets opening date

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What's cooking?

Heads up! Our new Top 100 Houston restaurants list drops next week, and we're having a great big tasting party to celebrate. We've invited a slew of top chefs from the list to bring their best bites for unlimited sampling — and there will be wine purveyors and schmoozing, too. 

It all happens at the Houston Chronicle building next Thursday, Oct. 24, and you can get tickets for the event here. Highly recommend. There are still some dishes from last year's event stuck in my brain; Aaron Davis of Viola & Agnes, I'm looking at you. 

Meanwhile my colleague Sonia Garcia just published one of the best pieces of food writing I've seen all year — a deeply reported (and deeply felt) portrait of a Houston restaurant owner, Christopher Huang, who's been struggling to keep his tiny Ninja Ramen shop open. 

It's a business story that's a profile, and a profile that's a business story, and you will emerge on the other side with a much better understanding of what it takes to keep a restaurant afloat in these very trying times. (Hint: It's not just skyrocketing food costs.)

Sonia has been tracking Ninja Ramen for a year, and I salute her and our editors, Jody Schmal and Melissa Aguilar, for staying steadfast in encouraging reporters to take time for this important work while keeping a thousand other plates spinning.

If you're a dedicated Houston diner — which is why you're here, right? — Sonia's piece is a must-read that is also a lovely piece of portraiture filled with little details to savor. 

The image of Chris sitting in his car outside the restaurant, so he'll be on call without taking up one of the seats, is one that I'll never forget. 

Photo of Alison Cook

Alison Cook, Restaurant Critic

Alison.Cook@houstonchronicle.com

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Pick of the Day

People dining and drinking at Ninja Ramen Friday, April 19, 2024 in Houston. Ninja Ramen has been open for 10 years but business has been difficult this past year.

Photo by: Yi-Chin Lee, Staff Photographer

The struggles of a Houston restaurant

Running a restaurant in 2024 has been expensive, with rising costs and money lost in the derecho and hurricane. Ninja Ramen provides a snapshot of the struggles.


Local eats

Ninja Ramen Bartender Daniel

Photo by: Yi-Chin Lee, Staff Photographer

A day in the life of a Houston restaurant owner

The Houston Chronicle took a closer look at the stressors the restaurant industry is facing through the lens of Ninja Ramen and its owner, Christopher Huang.

Ramen Master and Mensho Founder Tomoharu Shono makes sure the noodles are right while making a bowl of ramen Tuesday, Oct. 8, 2024 at Asiatown in Houston.

Photo by: Yi-Chin Lee, Staff Photographer

Michelin-recommended ramen shop Mensho opens in Asiatown with housemade noodles

"Ramen Creator" Tomoharu Shono expands his international chain of ramen shops to Texas with a 32-seat restaurant off Bellaire.

Hash Kitchen is know for its Bloody Mary bar.

Photo by: Hash Kitchen

All-day brunch with DIY Bloody Mary bar, anyone?

Chef Joey Maggiore, the self-described "Brunch King," is bringing Hash Kitchen and its boozy brunch menu to Pearland.

Portillo's Hot Dogs is planning to open a Katy location in 2024

Photo by: Courtesy/Portillo's

Chicago's famous Portillo's sets Houston opening date

The beloved Midwest-based chain serves hot dogs, Italian beef sandwiches, burgers and other Chicago-style street food favorites.

Shaquille O'Neal visited Jax Grill in Houston on Monday. 

Photo by: Courtesy Of Jax Grill

Shaquille O'Neal visits Houston restaurant

NBA star Shaquille O'Neal was spotted in Houston... ordering chicken-fried steak.

Afuri Ramen is opening in the Heights on Nov. 1. 

Photo by: Courtesy Of Afuri Ramen

New Japanese ramen restaurant coming soon

Tokyo-based Afuri Ramen is opening its first Texas location in Houston's Heights area.

Maven Coffee and Cocktails is opening in Sawyer Yards with a new food menu. 

Photo by: Becca Wright

Maven Coffee and Cocktails opening in Sawyer Yards this week

Astros star Lance McCullers' business is opening its first brick-and-mortar shop at Sawyer Yards with a full restaurant experience.


Events at the Chronicle

The delectable, crowd-pleasing Culinary Stars was back with a bang on Thursday, Oct. 19, on site at the Houston Chronicle.

Photo by: HC Marketing Photo

Tickets going fast for Houston Chronicle Top 100 restaurants event

The lineup includes BCN, Belly of the Beast, Brennan's, Le Jardinier, Mimo, Musaafer, Navy Blue, Pizzana, Pondicheri and more. Get your tickets here.

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Aprons on

Enchilada Queen Sylvia Caseres' cheese enchiladas with chili gravy are among nearly two dozen enchiladas available at Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen.

Photo by: Paula Murphy

42 iconic Houston recipes you can make at home

To celebrate Houston's favorite foods, we compiled a cookbook of dishes and drinks from the city's favorite chefs and restaurants.


Barbecue

Brisket biscuit, pinwheel and brisket and cheddar biscuit at Briscuits food truck in Austin 

Photo by: J.C. Reid, Contributor

Briscuits food truck in Austin combines briskets and biscuits

Briscuits food trailer in Austin has a signature dish: slices of smoked brisket piled on to a buttermilk biscuit and slathered with a smoked strawberry jelly. We tried it.

  • UPDATED: The 30 best places to get barbecue around Houston: Greater Houston is enjoying a new era of smoked meat supremacy, making it, perhaps, the new capital of Texas barbecue. Here the best BBQ places in Houston.

Houston's top restaurants

Gulf Shrimp, aguachile, avocado, taro, and shrimp oil photographed at Jun on Thursday, July 13, 2023 in Houston.

Photo by: Karen Warren, Staff Photographer

Houston Chronicle's Top 100 Restaurants of 2023

From tasting menus to world-class banh mi shops, this is our carefully vetted guide to the best dining in Houston.

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