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January 17, 2024

Small Texas town brings back iconic Pizza Hut dining room of many childhoods

Plus: Delicious soup recipes for the cold weather

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What's cooking?

Every week, I learn something new and interesting from my colleagues on the food team. Even when they tackle a topic in which I might think I'm uninterested — like a new chicken-finger chain restaurant, Layne's, opening in Montrose today — I find surprising nuggets that add to my worldview. And even to my ever-expanding to-do list.

Really, I do not care about fried chicken tenders in the slightest. Yet Bao Ong's account of born-in-College-Station Layne's history fascinated me — particularly in its account of budding Layne's franchise tycoon Masroor Fatany, a Houston native and A&M grad. I learned Fatany is also the, ahem, guy behind seven Halal Guys franchises in Houston, and that his go-to order at Laynes is "a club sandwich with spicy tenders and ranch with a salted caramel milkshake on the side." 

"I could go for that," I found myself thinking. "And maybe I will!"

I also found myself agreeing wholeheartedly with barbecue expert Chris Reid's theory that Caesar salad is an ideal barbecue companion. I realized I had experienced that particular magic at Feges BBQ, where I had encountered a "charred Caesar with serrano vinaigrette and delicious anchovy-gigged breadcrumbs."  

It's all about the umami, according to Chris. I was intrigued to learn that over in Port Neches at Redbird BBQ, pitmaster Amid Jalali, "a self-proclaimed Caesar salad fanatic," has developed a coleslaw with a Caesar profile, which Chris has dubbed one of the best in Texas. 

And I admit I drooled a little (a verb I use maybe once every couple of decades) over Chris's photo of the TRIS-ket sandwich, a collaboration in which Tris chef Austin Simmons' Caesar joins up with the brisket smoked by Corkscrew BBQ's Will Buckman. 

"I could go for that," I thought again. "And maybe I will."

On a more somber note, you won't find a better remembrance of much-loved Central Texas pitmaster John Brotherton than the one Chris posted today. And believe me, I've read them all since Brotherton's sudden passing this week. From his all-weather cargo shorts to the way he knitted the barbecue community together behind the scenes, he comes alive on the page. He'll be much missed here in Houston, where he had many friends.

Photo of Alison Cook

Alison Cook, Restaurant Critic

Alison.Cook@houstonchronicle.com

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Gil Weber sits down for lunch at the dine-in Pizza Hut on Wednesday, Jan. 10, 2024 in Hempstead. The Hempstead Pizza Hut is one of the few remaining old-school dine-in locations with a buffet and the nostalgic decor.

Photo by: Brett Coomer, Staff Photographer

Small town Pizza Hut goes viral for retro '70s design

The Hempstead, Texas restaurant has gained social media attention for remodeling into the 1970s style with checkered tablecloths and Pizza Hut lights.


Local eats

Pitmaster John Brotherton at the 2023 Houston Barbecue Festival

Photo by: Robert J. Lerma, Contributor

John Brotherton, influential pitmaster who helped usher in Texas craft BBQ movement, dead at 49

He opened Brotherton's Black Iron Barbecue in Pflugerville with a focus on Central Texas-style barbecue and was a regular presenter at Texas A&M University's Camp Brisket.

Apple-Bacon Pumpkin Soup recipe uses canned pumpkin.

Photo by: Greg Morago / Greg Morago

10 soups that will keep you warm during the freeze

Cold weather has hit Houston. Cooking at home? Try these recipes.

Layne's Chicken Fingers in Montrose is located at 2359 S. Shepherd

Photo by: Karen De Amat

Popular Texas-born chicken tender chain ready to open in Montrose

Layne's, which started 30 years ago in College Station, is continuing its expansion in Texas and beyond.

Pig pizza is one of the menu items at North Italia, opening in February at CityCentre.

Photo by: Courtesy Of North Italia

North Italia opening in February at Houston's CityCentre

North Italia is expanding its Houston footprint, bringing its scratch-made pastas to Houston's CityCentre.

Houston's largest annual whiskey festival is returning on April 20.

Photo by: Courtesy Of Houston Whiskey Riot

Whiskey festival returning to Houston in April

A whiskey festival claiming to be the largest in the region is returning for its seventh year to Houston.

Cyclone Anaya's seventh location of popular Tex-Mex restaurant will open summer 2023  The Houston Tex-Mex favorite will launch its seventh opening summer 2023 at 3736 Westheimer.

Photo by: Michael Ma

21 most-anticipated Houston restaurant openings in 2024

This year promises a flurry of openings, including Bar Bludorn to Phat Eatery.

Signage for La Grange restaurant/bar, Houston.

Photo by: La Grange

Houston Tex-Mex bar La Grange quietly closes its doors in Montrose

The restaurant cited issues returning to its pre-pandemic popularity.


Houston's top restaurants

Gulf Shrimp, aguachile, avocado, taro, and shrimp oil photographed at Jun on Thursday, July 13, 2023 in Houston.

Photo by: Karen Warren, Staff Photographer

Houston Chronicle's Top 100 Restaurants of 2023

From tasting menus to world-class banh mi shops, this is our carefully vetted guide to the best dining in Houston.


Aprons on

Starfruit sprout salad by Anita Jaisinghani

Photo by: Carolina Ayala, Contributor

This star fruit salad with no added fat is inspired by Delhi street food

During a trip to India, Houston chef Anita Jaisinghani tried this salad from a street vendor and now has recreated it at home.

Enchilada Queen Sylvia Caseres' cheese enchiladas with chili gravy are among nearly two dozen enchiladas available at Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen.

Photo by: Paula Murphy

42 iconic Houston recipes you can make at home

To celebrate Houston's favorite foods, we compiled a cookbook of dishes and drinks from the city's favorite chefs and restaurants.


Barbecue

'TRIS-ket' sandwich by chef Austin Simmons at CorkScrew BBQ, Spring

Photo by: J.C. Reid, Contributor

Why the Caesar salad is a perfect match for Texas barbecue

Houston barbecue joints Corkscrew BBQ and Feges BBQ have some variation of Caesar salad on the menu.

  • The 30 best places to get barbecue around Houston: Greater Houston is enjoying a new era of smoked meat supremacy, making it, perhaps, the new capital of Texas barbecue. Here are some of the best BBQ places in Houston.
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