Convenience Big Store: Alison Cook reviews the Pappas family's brilliant new oyster bar

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One perk of my job is getting to read Alison Cook's restaurant reviews before they publish. This week especially, since her rave about the Pappas family's Little's Oyster Bar could make it a bit more difficult to get a table there.

I never get tired of reading her copy. This paragraph, for example: "The shellfish were cooked just to the point of slick, glassy softness. That's no easy trick. Their surfaces shone with the lightest swab of olive oil brightened with lemon zest and dotted with teeny-tiny cylinders of chive. That little detail brought the shrimp alive, their sweetness tempered by that diagnostic Gulf hint of iodine and brine, so they taste like home."

No one does it better than Alison. Or Little's, apparently.

Jody Schmal, Food Editor

jody.schmal@houstonchronicle.com

An assortment of seafood dishes and appetizers are seen at Little's Oyster Bar, Friday, Aug. 11, 2023, in Houston.

Photo by: Jason Fochtman, Staff Photographer

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Photo by: Saigon Hustle And Sunday Press

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Photo by: L&LHawaiian Barbecue

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Photo by: Sienna Wings

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Photo by: Becca Wright

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Photo by: Carolina Ayala, Contributor

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