There was lots that's new, newer, newest in our food coverage this week.
Phat Eatery, the much-loved Malaysian restaurant founded by the late Alex Au-Yeung in Katy, has opened a Woodlands location under two of Au-Yeung's young lieutenants .
Young Nomi Nori, an Asiatown handroll joint, had to change its name because of a trademark issue, and Bao Ong traced the fascinating ins and outs.
Ben Berg's latest, the posh Turner's Cut steakhouse, opened with all sorts of bells and whistles in Autry Park, including — and I kid you not — a "bespoke sundae cart."
Bryan Caswell has joined forces with a well-heeled backer for a new Memorial-area restaurant that brings him back to the dining scene in a head chef role. The name, Latuli, is a bit of a head-scratcher, until you learn from Ong that it's a combo of the first syllables of the backer's three children, and I am not making that up.
New to me (but not to other Texans, apparently) was the concept of fried pork ribs, discussed by J.C. "Chris" Reid in his weekly barbecue meditation. I dunno. Frying seems like a mean thing to do to a smoked pork rib.
Still, it was the news about something old that cast a pall over me when I read that Damian's, the old school Italian restaurant, was closing after a 40-year run. I hadn't been in many years, so my pang was more about the passing of an era — one where clubby, doting, dimly lit restaurants with menus impervious to trends offered a hideaway for anything from a mother-daughter lunch or a tycoon's dinner with a mistress.
At some level, I believed Damian's was eternal. The realization that it was not caused a moment I'd describe, in the manner of John Donne, as "the bell tolls for thee."
Photo by: Michael Ma
Here are some of the Houston Chronicle food team's top picks for happy hour bargains.
Local eats
 Photo by: Kirk Sides, Staff Photographer |
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 Photo by: Brett Coomer, Staff Photographer |
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 Photo by: NoriNori |
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 Photo by: Raquel Natalicchio, Staff Photographer |
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 Photo by: Mayra Beltran, Staff |
The longtime favorite red-sauce restaurant, which has deep ties to the Mandola family, will close this summer. Here's why. |
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 Photo by: Jon Shapley, Staff Photographer |
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 Photo by: Atlas Restaurant Group |
Atlas Restaurant Group, the group behind Marmo and Loch Bar, is unveiling a Japanese concept called Azumi. |
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 Photo by: Brian Kennedy |
When Turner's Cut opens to the public it will be one of Houston's fanciest steakhouses. |
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 Photo by: Bucketlisters |
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 Photo by: Alex Montoya |
Latuli will be Bryan Caswell's first restaurant since closing the acclaimed Reef in Midtown during the pandemic. |
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Houston's top restaurants
 Photo by: Karen Warren, Staff Photographer |
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Aprons on
Photo by: Carolina Ayala, Contributor
The easy recipe from Houston chef Anita Jaisinghani is a little heartier than your average chutney.
 Photo by: Paula Murphy |
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Barbecue
Photo by: J.C. Reid, Contributor
These two spots are serving fried barbecue pork ribs. Both are delicious and different.
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