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December 06, 2023

Our 10 favorite bars decorated for the holiday season

Plus: The story behind the sudden closure of a local food hall

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What's cooking?

Our recent food coverage was a tomahawk steak, a parilla platter for four, a groaning trayful of grub from the Turkey Leg Hut — a lot to chew on.

We're talking Dallas, Dallas and more Dallas. Last week I reviewed Dallas import Il Bracco, sister restaurant to another Dallas import, Balboa Surf Club. Lo, this week our Sonia Garcia chronicled the veritable tide of Dallas-based restaurants opening in Houston, including one that went bust here in its first attempt — and another whose initial efforts here failed, too. Hope never dies.

Bao Ong spotlighted a new River Oaks French restaurant, Cocody, that I'd classify as a Piece of Work. That's what I call the elaborate, Instagram-friendly design trend that has  boomed here of late at spots like Little Hen, Annabelle Brasserie, the upcoming PostScript HTX (yes, it's from Dallas!), not to mention all manner of clubstaurants. I'm entertained and amused by such glitzy environments, but I do wonder if they'll wear well over the long haul — or end up looking dated.

If you've been wondering like me what the heck happened to Railway Heights, the once-promising food hall where Cottage Grove meets Old Katy Road, Bao Ong has a great piece tracing the implosion. Things I'll miss there: chef David Guerrero's Latin/Asian Mykuna; scrappy burger kiosk Peaky Grinders, which has found a new home at 606 Dennis St.; and the smart wine-tap bar operated by Shepard Ross. 

Ong also documented the restaurant forays and big, fat tips of visiting Tik-Tok reviewer Keith Lee, who gave the brown-stew chicken at Cool Runnings Jamaican Grill a perfect 10 points and said he'd come back to Houston just to visit The Breakfast Klub. I think I like this guy, and his enthusiasm for the improbable-sounding salmon cheesesteak, "drenched in butter, cheese and sweet chili sauce," at a food truck offering "classic Chinese takeout with a Philly twist." Only in Houston, folks.

Photo of Alison Cook

Alison Cook, Restaurant Critic

Alison.Cook@houstonchronicle.com

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Julep's holiday cocktails include a spiked hot cocoa. 

Photo by: Sergio Trevino

10 Houston holiday bars for festive cocktails and photos ops

Houston bars are decked out for the season. Here is where you can take Christmas photos and drink cocktails in an extra festive environment.


Local eats

Dec. 3, 2023, was the last day for the remaining food vendors at the former Railway Heights Market

Photo by: Bao Ong / Staff

Former buzzy Railway Heights Market evicts remaining food vendors

Sunday was the last day for food vendors at this Heights-area food hall, which opened to much fanfare in 2021.

Balboa Surf Club is a seafood restaurant located in Uptown from the Western Addition Group.

Photo by: Western Addition

Dallas restaurants flock to Houston, with 6 new openings

These Dallas-based restaurants have moved into Bayou City. Will they catch on?

The main dining room at Cocody in River Oaks

Photo by: Mickael Zibi, Start Concepts

River Oaks has a new chic, crystal light-filled French restaurant

Two veteran chefs reunite to open Cocody in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

Michael Bublé and Pual Cirka have launched whiskey brand Fraser &Thompson. Bublé will offer samples of it at a Houston Spec's on Thursday. 

Photo by: Courtesy Of Fraser & Thompson

Michael Bublé to visit Houston promoting new whiskey brand

Michael Bublé will be in Houston Thursday hawking his brand Fraser & Thompson. The appearance is open to all.

A chef at Ostia rolls out a sheet of pasta

Photo by: Arturo Olmos

Houston chefs star in sold-out restaurant merch collab

Tilit and Cambro, two well-known brands among chefs, sold out of the Cam Cups that look like they could come straight from a scene in "The Bear."

Yoyo's Hot Dogs is moving into a spot of Post Houston this week.

Photo by: Courtesy Of Yoyo's Hot Dogs

Yoyo's Hot Dog opens at Post Houston after decade as food stand

Yoyo's Hot Dog is the newest vendor at Post Houston, after 13 years as a food stand outside bars.

Nonno's Family Pizza Tavern, a retro-inspired restaurant serving tavern-style pizza, serves friends and family ahead of their opening on Saturday, July 29, 2023 in Houston.

Photo by: Raquel Natalicchio, Staff Photographer

What to know about Esquire's 'Pizza Joint of the Year' in H-Town

Nonno's and its Chicago-style pizzas come from the couple behind two other popular Montrose concepts.


Houston's top restaurants

Gulf Shrimp, aguachile, avocado, taro, and shrimp oil photographed at Jun on Thursday, July 13, 2023 in Houston.

Photo by: Karen Warren, Staff Photographer

Houston Chronicle's Top 100 Restaurants of 2023

From tasting menus to world-class banh mi shops, this is our carefully vetted guide to the best dining in Houston.


Aprons on

Carrot Kanji from chef Anita Jaisinghani

Photo by: Carolina Ayala, Contributor

Try super easy carrot kanji for warmth and immunity during the winter

The process of fermentation is kicked off with the addition of ground mustard seeds and contributes to the brine's sour, tangy flavor.

Enchilada Queen Sylvia Caseres' cheese enchiladas with chili gravy are among nearly two dozen enchiladas available at Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen.

Photo by: Paula Murphy

42 iconic Houston recipes you can make at home

To celebrate Houston's favorite foods, we compiled a cookbook of dishes and drinks from the city's favorite chefs and restaurants.


Barbecue

A barbecue tray from Redbird BBQ in Port Neches

Photo by: J.C. Reid / Contributor

Redbird BBQ brings craft barbecue deeper into Southeast Texas

The Central Texas-style smoked meats made by Amir Jalali and his team on two 1,000-gallon offset barrel smokers are some of the best in the state. 

  • The 30 best places to get barbecue around Houston: Greater Houston is enjoying a new era of smoked meat supremacy, making it, perhaps, the new capital of Texas barbecue. Here are some of the best BBQ places in Houston.
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