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September 19, 2023

Into the Red Dzao Highlands

Roads & Kingdoms

SOMEWHERE NEAR THE VIETNAM-CHINA BORDER

INTO THE RED DZAO HIGHLANDS

Indigenous cultures are threatened around the world. It is no different in the northern highlands of Vietnam, where the Red Dzao and H'mong live as they have for centuries, largely isolated from the majority Kinh Vietnamese, and often at odds with encroaching modernity.


It raises a conundrum for travel: these groups are proud of their culture, largely happy to host. But tourism in indigenous lands can border on voyeurism, with little connection between the visitor and visited.


Which is why it's our great privilege to be partnered with Song Cai Distillery on our Vietnam, the North journey from November 5-12, 2023. Song Cai is not a travel operator, they are an innovative and ethical distillery that makes exceptional gins and amaros using botanicals foraged in large part by indigenous highland groups. Their relationships in the hills are deep and reciprocal, based on trust and longstanding business ties. So when village elders like Vang Sin Min and Ly Lo May welcome us in November, it's as friends of her partners. And the hospitality that ensues, well, it's spectacular.


Partnering with Song Cai is about human connections, but also about basic access to special areas in the north - from Red Dzao black cardamom forests in Ta Phin, to the H'mong Si Ma Cai water buffalo markets that are usually off-limits to outsiders (mainly due to the nearby border with China). But Song Cai and its founder Daniel Nguyen's commercial and community ties allow them to bring us along to the water buffalo market and the surrounding villages for an in depth experience. It's an incredible privilege to spend time with elders like Vang Sin Min and Ly Lo May, to share their food, drink, and hear their story. It's an incredible privilege to travel with Song Cai.


We still have room left on the journey. If you want to experience the highlands alongside Song Cai, Daniel and co-host Andy Ricker, we still have space available in our Vietnam, the North journey (Nov 5-12, 2023). If you're interested send us a note. And you can find all our other itineraries that still have space available, including in 2024, on the League site.


Photos top to bottom: Red Zhao feast in Lao Cai, Red Zhao elder Vang Sin Min cooking, SongCai's Daniel Nguyen sampling botanicals for his gin, Red Dzao forager with botanicals. Photos by Michael Magers and SongCai Distillery

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