Jason Atherton's latest opening inside a smart new Mayfair hotel
Star chef and restaurateur Jason Atherton's latest opening is certainly a symbolic one. It was here in Mayfair's leafy Grosvenor Square, 18 years ago, that he cut his teeth and launched his career at Gordon Ramsey's restaurant Maze. Since then, he's gone on to open 18 restaurants and bars around the world, winning four Michelin stars along the way. And The Betterment has bold ambitions to become the beating heart of Mayfair's newest hotel, The Biltmore – there's a separate entrance for non-guests, and when we visited it heaved with the confidence of a restaurant that had been around forever, despite the hotel only having been open a week. In the mornings, breakfasts of lobster and truffled scrambled egg are served; later, there's afternoon tea in the lobby, and in the evenings it's zhuzzed-up, brilliant British cooking. It also has a real trump card: a huge, tropical-plant-festooned heated terrace open all year round – allowing diners to eat outside even on London's chilliest evenings. Inside, the grown-up gold and leather interiors lead to a gleaming white bar, which is just as busy at 3pm as it is late at night. |
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